Continuing on in my scrapbusting adventures, I wanted to make a matching flat cap to go along with my patchwork waistcoat. Not breaking any new ground here, this is already a pretty popular style, but it’s another fun thing to try out and there are still some fun new things to try out along the way. The most important thing is finding a way to make homemade buckram for the cap bill.
Flat Cap Pattern
The pattern I’m using comes from Vanessa Mooncie’s book, The Gentleman’s Wardrobe, which includes a pretty good selection of vintage-modern men’s garment and accessory patterns.
I’ve gotten a lot of mileage from the book and its instructions, even if I’m not using as much since I’ve started drafting more patterns of my own.
Since I’m following the same method as before for the fabric, I haven’t taken any pictures of the patchwork construction.
I also didn’t take many pictures of the cap constructions, since I followed the book’s instructions more or less exactly as written.
Cover image from Goodreads
Homemade Buckram
Finally, something new. The pattern calls for buckram in the cap bill. Buckram is a type of very stiff fabric often used in hats and bookbinding. It’s the part that feels like there’s cardboard underneath. It’s similar to very stiff interfacing, and sometimes interfacing can be used instead.
Buckram is also not something I just have laying around.
So I need to make some.
Yes, obviously, I could just go buy some, but that’s not the point! This is a scrapbusting project, it’s supposed to use up my fabric stash, not add to it, and only use things I already have laying around.
Besides, according to Wikipedia, buckram is just a heavily starched fabric, often muslin. I have plenty of scraps of muslin laying around. I have cornstarch in the kitchen. How hard can this be?
According to SewHistorically, that’s really all there should be to it, so let’s give this a go! I have found other sources suggesting gum tragacanth or xanthan gum but, again, I’m using what I have and what I have is cornstarch. SilverBobbin recommends one part starch to six parts water, though SewHistorically suggests a 1:4 cornstarch to water ratio.
Paraphrasing the SewHistorically method as a recipe, because for some reason that made the most sense to me:
Homemade Buckram
Ingredients
- 4 tbsp cornstarch
- 1 cup water
- Pattern piece(s) cut from coarse cotton/linen
Instructions
- Heat the water over medium heat.
- Whisk in the cornstarch, stirring continuously.
- Continue to whisk until mixture turns clear.
- Remove from heat.
- Once the mixture is cool , dip in the fabric.
- Squeeze out any excess liquid.
- Fold in a kitchen towel and iron dry.
I think I’ll try parchment paper next time instead of a kitchen cloth, though, the starch kept sticking to the cloth as it was being ironed and had to be removed and replaced several times. Otherwise, this went pretty well. I am curious if the same method might work with more complex shapes that need to be shaped while the buckram is still wet and pliable, but that’s a problem for another day.
Results
Well, here’s the finished cap, and I have to say I’m pleased with it. The homemade buckram works well in the bill, the denim and canvas make a solid cap and I love the colorful underside, even if no one else can see it.
The cap matches the waistcoat perfectly, but the ensemble is still missing something. I have some jeans that are badly in need of repair that I think might perfectly complete the outfit.
One response to “Patchwork Cap with Homemade Buckram”
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