Printing
Check the size charts here.
There are two sets of PDF’s in the download: an A0 pattern to be sent to a copy shop and printed full size and a set of tiled pages for printing at home. Tape the tiles together as marked.
Adjust the pieces at the marked locations if necessary for best fit and cut out.
Material
The pants are made out of the same black fabric as the jacket sides and sleeves. I’ve tried several fabrics for this and fallen on a jersey knit cotton as the best. It’s heavy enough to fall well while still tending to breathe comfortably, and the stretch makes it a pretty forgiving fabric to work with. It’s the best option I’ve found so far, though I’m certainly open to alternatives.
| Pants Size | Main Fabric (54″) | Elastic |
|---|---|---|
| XS (29/31) | 1-1/2 yd | 13″ |
| S (31/32) | 1-1/2 yd | 14″ |
| M (34/32) | 1-1/2 yd. | 15″ |
| L (36/33) | 2 yd | 16″ |
| XL (40/34) | 2 yd. | 18″ |
| XXL (46/34) | 2 yd. | 21″ |
| 3XL (50/35) | 2-1/2 yd. | 22″ |
In addition to the main fabric, we’re going to need some 2″ wide elastic for the rear waistband and division colored piping for the pants front.
Piping
Division colored piping is made from two 1-1/2″ wide strips of the same material as the jacket body pieces. Cut both strips to the length given in the table.
| Pants Size | Piping Length (2x) |
|---|---|
| XS | 42″ |
| S | 43″ |
| M | 44″ |
| L | 46″ |
| XL | 48″ |
| XXL | 51″ |
| 3XL | 52″ |
You’ll also need the stated length of piping cord to actually make your piping. Piping cord is a non-elastic cord, usually 1/8″ in diameter. Wrap your fabric strip around your piping cord and sew it closed, close to the cord.
Making your own piping guarantees that the color will match the jacket panels. If you don’t have a piping foot, a zipper foot can also be used.
The same foot will be used when sewing the piped seams. Attach the piping to the right side of one of the pieces being attached. Then sandwich it between the two pieces of fabric and close the seam.
Kneepad
The kneepad has two parts, the padding material and the lining, which are attached to the front inside panel. Make sure to mark the quilting lines on the correct side of the padding. The padding piece is not symmetric, it has seam allowance only on the outer portion.
Pin the padding to the front inside panel. Stitch the quilting lines, making sure to leave 1/4″ at the inside edge. The quilting stitches will hold the padding in place as you attach the lining.
Clip the inside corners of the lining piece. Fold the edge of the lining under the padding on the inside edge. The extra gap at the edge of the quilting line will allow the lining to fold under neatly. Stitch around the edge of the lining.
Baste the lining seam allowance to the padding and panel seam allowance on the outside edge. If your material is prone to fraying, you may need to overlock the seam allowance.
Pants Front
Next, we attach the piping and put the two front panels together.
Baste the piping to the front inside panel.
Line up the front inside and front outside panels, matching the notches. Working around the kneepad is tricky. Clip the corners around the pad and work slowly. You will stitch through the pocket, front outside panel, piping, and front inside panel.
Attach the front cuff, matching the notch to the piping.
Close the Pants
From here on out, the process for finishing the pants is fairly typical.
With the cuffs still open, pin and stitch the front and back pieces together at the side seams, right sides together.
Close the center back and crotch seams.
Stitch the inseam closed, the cuffs will still be unfinished. This can be done in one long, continuous line.
Overlock the bottom of the cuffs. Flip the cuff in and topstitch.
Waistband
Interface the front waistband. Fold and stitch down the top edge of the front and back waistband pieces.
Attach the front and back waistband pieces together, then attach the waistband to the pants, matching the notches. The front notches align with the front piping.
Attach the elastic band to the inside of the waistband side seam.
To close the elastic waistband, pin a safety pin to the other end of the elastic. Fold over the waistband and begin stitching the back waistband closed. Pull the safety pin and elastic through the enclosure, so that the portion being stitched remains flat. Continue this process until reaching the opposite side seam. Pin and stitch the elastic to this side.
Fold over and finish closing the waistband.
This tutorial shows more detail on putting together a half-elastic waistband.
Finishing
That should be it. Your new uniform pants are nearly done. Give the whole thing a once over to make sure there aren’t any loose threads or mistakes.
For seam finishing, you have two broad options: understitching and overlocking. I like to understitch most of the seams to help keep the bulk down, especially on the piping and the crotch seam. For the inseam I simply overlocked the two sides together.
Congratulations!
Your Planetary Union uniform pants are finished! Combine with a jacket and undershirt and explore the galaxy in style!
One response to “Orville Planetary Union Uniform Pants Tutorial”
[…] adventure! This time, I need batting for a project. I go through padding quite a lot, such as when Orville uniform kneepads. I still have all this leftover fabric scraps, too small for proper patchworks, surely […]