Printing
Check the size charts here.
There are two sets of PDF’s in the download: an A0 pattern to be sent to a copy shop and printed full size and a set of tiled pages for printing at home. Tape the tiles together as marked.
Adjust the pieces at the marked locations if necessary for best fit and cut out.
Material
The uniform jacket requires four different types of fabric. There’s the division colored panels, a grey material for the shoulder yoke and collar, black for the sleeves and sides, and a lining fabric.
For the division color and grey portions, I prefer to use bullet textured polyester, also known as Liverpool fabric for reasons I have been unable to discern. Because this tends to be quite a bit stretchier than ideal, I underline the panels with a black lightweight cotton/poly fabric. An alternative method I’ve used is sports mesh underlined with a mediumweight cotton in matching colors.
I’ve tried several options for black portions and fallen on a jersey knit cotton. It’s heavy enough to fall well while still tending to breathe comfortably, and the stretch makes it pretty forgiving to work with. It’s the best option I’ve found so far, though I’m certainly open to alternatives. I’ve also used scuba knit polyester, and it also works fairly well. Both of these are heavy enough not to require lining.
| Jacket Size | Color | Black | Grey | Lining |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 |
| S | 1/2 | 1 | 1/2 | 1/2 |
| M | 1/2 | 1 | 1/2 | 1/2 |
| L | 1/2 | 1 | 1/2 | 1/2 |
| XL | 1 | 1 | 1/2 | 1 |
| 2XL | 1 | 1 | 1/2 | 1 |
| 3XL | 1 | 1 | 1/2 | 1 |
For the New Horizons style jacket, you’ll also want some black Liverpool fabric, as much of the black portions are made using that material, which in turn requires those portions be lined.
Piping
We’ll also be using 1-1/2″ strips of the main division color fabric to make piping. Piping is used on the sleeves and collar, and we’ll need several different lengths to complete the full jacket.
| Size | Sleeve Length (4x) | Sleeve Width (4x) | Collar (1x) |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 23″ | 6″ | 18″ |
| S | 24″ | 6-1/2″ | 19″ |
| M | 24-1/2″ | 7-1/2″ | 19″ |
| L | 25″ | 8″ | 20″ |
| XL | 26″ | 9″ | 20″ |
| XXL | 27″ | 9-1/2″ | 20″ |
| 3XL | 27″ | 10-1/2″ | 21″ |
You’ll also need the stated length of piping cord to actually make your piping. Piping cord is a non-elastic cord, usually 1/8″ in diameter. Wrap your fabric strip around your piping cord and sew it closed, close to the cord.
Making your own piping guarantees that the color will match the jacket panels. If you don’t have a piping foot, a zipper foot can also be used.
The same foot will be used when sewing the piped seams. Attach the piping to the right side of one of the pieces to be attached. Then sandwich it between the two pieces of fabric and close the seam.
Underlining / Flatlining
You can choose to either underline or flatline the jacket pieces before construction.
There is a subtle, but important difference between the two, although both achieve the goal of limiting the tendency of our outer fabric to stretch.
Keep in mind when flat lining that you will need to widen the lining pieces by 5/8″ or your chosen seam allowance on the vertical seams.
For underlining the lining and main pieces are the same size.
Body Construction
Yoke
Interface the yoke and then attach the lining.
If using Velcro or other attachments, you may choose to do them either now or after the jacket is finished.
Attach the yoke to the front and back shoulder seams, matching the notches.
Press the yoke seam down and topstitch 1/8″ (or your piping diameter) from the seam. An edgestitch foot will help with this.
Side Ribbing
Cut out the padded underlayer. Flexible foam padding is an option for this, as is felt. Note that the padding piece should not have seam allowance included at the top and bottom but should have it included on the sides.
Pin the padding piece to the side panel and topstitch through the marked quilting lines.
Pin the lining over the padding. Fold the lining under the padding at the top and bottom. Understitch the lining through the padding and outer panel.
Baste the sides. You may wish to overlock the sides if your lining or padding material is prone to fraying.
Cut and attach a strip of interfacing the size of the pocket mouth. Fold over and stitch closed.
Pin the pocket to the side panel with the pocket right side to the panel wrong side, matching the notches. Sew together.
Flip the pocket bag so that the right side is out and the wrong side is facing the panel right side. Baste the sides.
Stitch down the pocket mouth down at the center to create a split opening. This will help the pocket to hold its shape.
If you choose to forgo the pocket, you will need to extend the bottom seam allowance of the side panel to 1″ to match the hem allowance of the front and back panels.
Side Panel Attachment
Attach the front and back panels to the side panel, matching the notches.
Press the side seams down and topstitch as before.
The body is done, except for hemming, which we’ll get to at the end. It’s time to move on to the sleeves.
Sleeve Construction
The sleeve is similar to an ordinary two piece sleeve, with the exception that the upper sleeve is divided into three parts to accommodate the piping and ribbing. We need to put together those pieces first before getting to the more conventional parts of the sleeve construction.
Sleeve Ribbing
Unlike the side panel padding, the sleeve padding is cut out with the full seam allowance. The lining does not need to be folded over on this piece. Every edge will be caught in a seam when completing the sleeve.
Topstitch the quilting lines.
Pin the sleeve lining over the padding and baste in place. You may wish to overlock the sides if your materials are prone to fraying.
Upper Sleeve
Attach sleeve width piping pieces to the top and bottom of the completed ridge piece.
Pin sleeve end to forearm ribbing with right sides together, matching the notches, and sew together.
Attach upper sleeve to forearm ribbing the same way.
Undersleeve Attachment
Attach sleeve length piping to both sides of the completed upper sleeve.
Attach undersleeve to upper sleeve, right sides together.
Now the sleeves and body are done and we can attach them together.
Attach Sleeve
The sleeves are set into the body and sewn on the round. Match the notches. The sleeve piping should match with the side panel seam, but this is not guaranteed, especially if you needed to adjust the pattern.
This tutorial goes into plenty of detail on sewing in sleeves on the round.
Last Steps
The jacket is nearly done. Before proceeding, you should try it on to test the fit and look for any mistakes. It’s only going to get more difficult to unpick and go back from here on out.
Zipper Placement
You’ll want to measure the jacket as it sits now to confirm your zipper length. I’ve found that 15″ zippers work well for smaller jackets and 20″ work well for larger ones. The show’s uniforms don’t zip all the way up and do have a bit of flair out at the bottom.
You can add hook-and-eye closures at the top, which they do on the show jackets to give just a bit more height past the zipper top.
Attach the zipper right side to ride side on the jacket. Flip and topstitch.
Do not topstitch all the way up.
Collar
Interface the collar main fabric. Depending on your material, you may need to interface the collar lining as well.
Attach piping and lining to the collar main fabric. Trim the excess seam allowance.
Now, attach the collar to the jacket body with 5/8″ seam allowance.
Turn the collar lining in and stitch-in-the-ditch to close the lining.
Fold any excess piping into the front body panel fabric and tack down. Finish the topstitching up the front panels that you started with the zipper.
Hemming
Fold in and hem the sleeves to fit.
Fold in and hem the jacket body panels to match the side-panel length. If desired, you can allow the front to dip down lower, so long as the front inside matches on both sides.
Finishing
Check the length and fit one more time.
Now you can add the accessories. I cut my badges out of foam and use Velcro on the back. Check the size and placement before trying to attach the Velcro to the jacket side. It’s usually best to use the softer, loop side of the Velcro on the jacket, so that it doesn’t end up pulling the fabric in the wash.
Congratulations!
Your Planetary Union uniform jacket is finished and are ready to explore the galaxy in style!
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