As mentioned in my first post about this Templar uniform frock project, there’s a great deal that I need to look into before leaping straight into construction. What materials did they use? What pattern can I use? What should the lining and facings look like? What does the interior structure look like?
The uniform regulations I cited before aren’t too helpful here. They specify the cut and style of the coat in reasonable detail but the only information provided about the material is “black cloth lined with black material.”[1] Not exactly a wealth of information.
This means delving into what we know about frock coats of the era, particularly the military uniform frocks that these costumes are so clearly based upon.
Army Uniform Frocks
So, let’s consider some other sources. Templar uniforms are largely based on contemporary US Army dress uniforms. Or, at least, are usually only a generation or two behind.[3] It’s a safe bet, then, that their frock coats should have been substantially similar to military uniform frocks. So let’s take a look at those for some more guidance.
Redingote
Coatee
Frock Coat
Service Coat
Enough has been written elsewhere about the history of the frock, in both civilian and military contexts, that I feel no reason to go into too much detail here. Frocks were standard for the US Army from around the time of Mexican-American War until around the Spanish-American War.
The Civil War is the most thoroughly documented of this era, with the most surviving examples. This is around the time that the Grand Encampment decided to mandate the military style frock as their uniform[3] so it makes sense to look at Civil War uniforms for inspiration.
It is depressing, if unsurprising, that there is considerably more documentation on Confederate uniforms than Union. The two examples above show the interior structure of period uniform frocks. The quarter-lined Union coat shows the interior structure nicely. We can also see the tail pockets, something we’ll get to a bit later. The Confederate frock also shows how the facing and linings are put together for a fully lined frock.
Union uniform regulations specified wool broadcloth with cotton linings. In theory, the wool could keep soldiers warm in the winter and cool in the summer. The extent to which it did the later is up for debate. That’s still enough to go on, moving forward.
Frock Coat Materials
While Army uniform frocks were mass produced, a Templar’s uniform frock would probably be custom tailored. This leaves a bit of wiggle room for the design and materials choice. A man paying for his own uniform frock might spring for full linings and polished cotton or even silk.
With all that in mind, I can start gathering materials. In addition to the main fabric and lining, discussed above, coats of the era included canvas, cotton batting, and stay tape for structure.[6]
I also need muslin, period instructions say cheese-cloth, to support the canvas and batting. None of these were difficult to find, since they’re still in use, in one form or another, in couture tailoring.
In searching Fabric Row, I found a lovely black wool to serve for the main body and a decent cotton for the linings and pockets. The wool is quite thick, it’ll be very warm when done. Just in time for summer! Oh well, it’ll still be done when fall arrives again.
I also found this amazing black lining material at The Resource Exchange, my favorite thrift store. A quick burn test confirms that it is, at least mostly, natural fiber, so I’m working on the assumption that it’s Rayon. Rayon is slightly newer than the era I’m shooting for, but much cheaper than the more authentic silk, so I’m using this for the sleeve lining.
Victorian sleeves tended to have different linings from the rest of the coat, often striped. I’ve read speculation that this was done in order to reduce bulk and make the sleeve lining smoother for easy movement, but haven’t found a good source to corroborate that.[7]
Templar Frock Pattern
As always, our first source of information is going to be Mr. Regal. However, I discovered something infuriating when preparing for this project. After I finished the drafting, I went back to find some citation information for the book and discovered, to my chagrin, that there was a Fourth Edition.
Why didn’t anyone tell me that there was a later edition!?
I’ve been using the Third Edition, like a chump. Incidentally, I also found out the same publisher released a book of patterns for women’s garments, written by Gustav Engelmann and imaginatively titled The American Garment Cutter for Women’s Garments. I need to look into that later.
Anyway, the 1924 edition of Regal’s book has the same patterns as the 1914 edition that I’ve been working from, but enjoys some slight improvements over its predecessor. The patterns are grouped together into sections and the instructions are overall more clearly written. Compare the two sets of instructions for the Clergyman’s / Templar frock coat I’m making now:
Much clearer, or at least better laid out. Oh well, the pattern comes out the same, either way. With the sleeves, facing, lining, and canvas pieces also traced from the draft:
There are several other pieces that I need to consider before moving on with construction, though. Notably the linings and facings, shown above, and the all important pockets.
Frock Coat Lining, Facing, and Pockets
The last step, before really beginning construction, is to prepare the rest of the pattern. Regal only gives us the main body draft, not instructions on how to draft the internal structure of the coat. For that, we’ll need our last major source for this project.
Written by Atichem N. Rite, “How To Make A Cutaway Frock” was published in The American Tailor and Cutter from Dec. 1901 through Nov. 1903 in a serialized format.[9] I intend to say more about this serial in another post, because I’ll be drawing quite a bit of information for this project from it. The text offers a spectacular amount of detail on the entire construction process.
Crucially, the serial includes how to draft the facings, linings, and pockets. In the above image, I’ve already imported the instructions for canvas, facings, and linings. The last image shows the drafting method for the pockets. This coat will include both inner breast pockets and tail pockets. The breast pockets are fairly standard even now in men’s jackets, but tail pockets deserve a closer look.
Frock Coat Tail Pockets
The tail pocket is one of the most interesting components of a frock coat. As the name implies, these are pockets hidden in the tails, accessible by reaching through from back. They appear to come in and out of style throughout the century that frock coats remained fashionable and their original purpose is a bit of a mystery.
One story I’ve found holds that, in order that his pockets not upset the perfect lines of his frock, famous dandy Beau Brummel instructed his tailor to hide a set of pockets in the tails.[10] Another suggests that cavalry coats included pockets in the tails because they were easily accessible while mounted.[11] Yet another states that infantrymen would put weights in these pockets to hold the tails in place during parade drills, and would stash flasks in them while on the march.[12]
With all that out of the way, I’ve got a pattern and materials selected and can start with the actual construction of this Templar Frock.
Sources
- Uniform Regulations of the Grand Commandery of Kentucky Knights Templar as adopted May 19, 1904.
- https://www.defense.gov/Multimedia/Experience/Common-Threads/Common-Threads-Army/
- MacDonald, M. C. (2008). Fraternal regalia I: Knights Templar: A collectors guide to the orders, degrees, activities, Swords, uniforms, badges, medals, regalia, and collectible souvenirs of the commandery of the Knights Templar of York Rite Freemasonry. New Columbia Publishing.
- http://www.cjdaley.com/boylancoat.htm
- https://adolphusconfederateuniforms.com/
- Maclochlainn, J. (2011). The Victorian Tailor: An introduction to period tailoring. St. Martins Griffin.
- https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/threads/question-about-suit-sleeve-lining.73885/
- Regal, S. (1914). The American Garment Cutter (Third). American Fashion Company.
- The American tailor and cutter. New York: Jno. J. Mitchell Co.
- https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/up-close-the-hidden-tailcoat-pocket/
- https://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/
- https://civilwartalk.com/forums/
- https://reginajeffers.blog/2018/05/16/regency-mens-wear-the-coat/
