Designing Sokka – Costume Research and Philosophy

Introduction

Well, that title sounded a bit pretentious, didn’t it? That is what this post is about, though, after a fashion at least. I’ve always considered making a good costume to be more than just replicating what was shown on screen. It’s about looking like the character, after all. That might sound a little silly, how can those two things be different, after all? But with an animated character like Sokka there is a world of difference.

A collection of Sokka’s looks throughout the series, by AlisaChristopher on DeviantArt.

Let’s be clear about which outfit we’re discussing here, first. As pictured above, Sokka has a pretty good variety of looks. If we focus specifically on Book 2 (sans the hat, purse, and belt) his outfit isn’t that complicated. It’s a light blue sleeveless tunic, dark blue breeches, and white forearm guards.

Another view, from Tumblr
From AliExpress

We could simply replicate what we see on screen. The result, however, doesn’t look like something that a real person would wear. It looks like, well, a costume; not something that Sokka, a young warrior from the Southern Water Tribe wears on his adventures, but just something meant to look like Sokka.

That still seems a little abstract, let’s narrow in on something specific and focus on that white waistband for a moment. The one in the costume on the right certainly does look like what’s on the left, but it doesn’t serve any actual purpose. It’s not clear why that waistband is there, no real person would wear something like that, it’s done simply to look like the one on the left. This isn’t a problem that the animated Sokka on the left has, his waistband is just there and it’s fine.

Let’s ask ourselves, then, what is the waistband for? Why does Sokka have a white band around his waist that seems to be either part of, or placed over, his tunic? The obvious answer is that it’s a belt. We get a hint that this is so from the picture, his tunic seems to drape a bit over where the belt is cinched. It could, of course, be attached to the tunic, but it seems that Sokka would prefer the simpler design of a separate belt that goes over the tunic. This is similar to common peasant clothing.

Chinese peasant wearing a 短打 (Duan Da) from NewHanfu

While many styles of belt have existed throughout history, the cute fellow above suggests the simplest, and probably most likely in this case, a simple fabric belt tied over the wearer’s tunic. Such clothes remain common in may applications, most notably it resembles a modern martial arts uniform. The basic design was also used as the inspiration for Jedi tunics in Star Wars, too.

Tunic

This gives us a pretty good place to start for how to design Sokka’s tunic. A warrior of the Southern Water Tribe needs his clothes to be comfortable, free moving, and rugged. All attributes that a martial arts uniform must also have. So, why don’t we base our design off of one?

The “traditional” keikogi is made from sashiko fabric, a weaving pattern made from linen or cotton. I put the word “traditional” in scare quotes because the history of the uniform style now known to Americans as a “gi” is heavily interwoven with the export of Japanese and Okinawan martial arts to the West.

Myriad other weaving options exist, of course. The Southern Water Tribe is very heavily influenced by Inuit culture and aesthetics as well and, though Inuit traditional clothing favors fur and leather over woven fabric, other First Nations techniques offer a wide range of possibilities for fabric options.

Sashiko Weave, KaSakura Shop
Salish Weave, Wikipedia

Of course we, as costumers, are limited by what is readily available. While a film studio might commission a weaver to produce a bolt of custom fabric, as amateurs we’ll have to make do with what we can buy off-the-shelf at the local fabric store. Practically speaking, that means a cotton or linen twill. Both of the weaves shown above are, technically, types of twill weave, though they have far more decorative features than the simple, machine-made cotton twill shown below. Still, the plain old twill is inexpensive and hard-wearing, just like we’d imagine Sokka’s tunic should be.

Light Blue Cotton Twill, from Fabric.com
White Cotton Twill, from Amazon

I will always favor going to a local fabric store over buying online so that I can feel the weight of the fabric and see the thread and color myself, but not everyone has the luxury of being able to visit Fabric Row every week like I do.

Belt

Once his tunic is finished, Sokka will need a belt to go over it. Of course, the simplest style of belt is just a strip of sturdy fabric tied around the waist. This is probably the oldest style of belt in world and variations on sash belts appear in many times and places. Japanese obi are often made from silk brocade, though any material can be used; Gaelic crios feature wool thread woven into complex designs; modern martial arts belts are simple cotton/polyester blend, heavily reinforced.

Linen Obi from PoulinaCouture
Wool Crios from DesignIreland

Once again, Sokka’s outfit seems relatively simple, with only slight decoration, as is his belt. That tracks with the fact that he does briefly sport an elaborate championship belt over his white belt, something that would only make sense if his belt is comparatively thin and plain. We can also assume that his belt will be made from similar material to his other clothes. For us, that’ll mean a white cotton twill, same as his tunic collar.

Breeches

Having pieced together the top of Sokka’s outfit, we come to the pants. We must first ask how they’re actually held up. Most modern pants intended for outside wear use buttons, zippers, and/or hook-and-eye closures on their flies. None of these seems like a “traditional” Southern Water Tribe method. Buttons before the modern era were difficult and expensive to make and button-holes are time consuming to stitch.

Many pre-modern “pants” were actually no such thing, but a separate breechcloth or cod-piece and pair of hose or leggings. Consider the Shoshone leggings below, which would be tied to the belt which also held up the wearer’s breechcloth.

Shosone Leggings, from Native Languages
Traditionally worn with a separate breechcloth
Skjoldehamn broka, from Viking Age Clothing
Note the drawstring waistband

Sokka, however, is very clearly wearing pants, as we can see see above when he takes off his top. This means we have to ask how such things are held up without belts, buttons, or zips. As before, the answer is actually simple and we can look at a modern martial arts uniform for the clue. Early trousers featured drawstrings, as seen above, just as many workout clothes today continue to do. Drawstrings are simple, cheap, comfortable, and easy to replace if they break.

Sokka also tucks his trousers into what looks like a either a pair of leather boots or greaves. This means the bottom must be cuffed. Well, not must be, it is possible to tuck even fairly loose pants into the tops of a set of boots, but cuffs would go a long way to making his outfit more comfortable to wear. They are also likely to be some form of loose fitting trousers allowing freedom of movement. Loose pants that tighten just under the knee appear around the world and go by many names, from breeches to salwar to knickers to tobi. Sokka seems to be wearing something like one of them.

Knickerbockers
from Wikipedia
Tobi Pants
from JapanZone
Canvas Trousers
from Sons of Vikings

This still leaves us with a few options for the actual cuff closures. Again, many methods have been used through time, including buttons, buckles, zippers, and elastic. If we were working with Korra, who lives in a transitional period where all these methods are readily available, we might consider any of them. Sokka, however, is largely working with what is relatively simple to produce by hand. Once again, I believe a drawstring is our best option.

So, now we can say with reasonable confidence our Sokka costume should feature a light blue, sleeveless tunic with a white collar over dark blue breeches and covered by a white belt; all made from cotton twill. Seems like a lot of work to arrive at something we could have guessed at early on, but I hope we all learned something along the way. It should at least give us a good place to start with the actual design and construction of a Sokka costume, anyway.

Shin Guards

With some notion of his clothes, we can move on to Sokka’s accessories. Excepting his signature boomerang, of course. His footwear seems like a good place to start, since we already touched on that topic. The whole reason we worried about the cuffs of his pants was that they had to tuck into whatever was covering his shins, whether that was armor or just the tops of his boots.

Japanese greaves, from Wikipedia
Innuit Mukluk, from Heddels

It’s hard to tell what sort of footwear Sokka has. The high knee might indicate armor, similar to the greaves on the left, but it seems more likely that they are simply high boots. Given the strong Inuit influence on the design of the Water Tribes, it seems likely that Sokka might be wearing a mukluk, a style of boot popular among Arctic peoples.

Once again, as a costumer, we need to step back and consider what sort of garment is practical to make and what what material is available. Those aren’t the only two options, after all. We should consider the possibility that what Sokka is wearing is a pair of gaiters. It was actually popular for many boots to be divided into parts, donned separately, similar to a pair of ankle boots and gaiters. In terms of a Sokka costume, then, we can focus on only producing an appropriate pair of gaiters.

WWI Army Gaiters
from World War Wonders
Kyahan
from Wikipedia
Modern Mukluk
from Footwear News

So, we can consider Sokka’s footwear to be a pair of low, ankle boots or possibly shoes, probably a moccasin style, with a pair of leather or fur gaiters worn on the shins which cover the tops of his shoes. He then tucks the cuffs of his breeches into the tops of the gaiters.

Forearms

Moving back up, we come to Sokka’s forearms. And, once again, things get a little murky. Our first impulse might be to assume that he’s wearing something like Muay Thai wraps, but Sokka’s only cover his forearm and don’t extend over his knuckles or hand, which would make them completely useless for the actual purpose that boxing wraps are supposed to serve, to protect the delicate bones of the hand and wrist. They actually look more like compression wraps for an injury.

Muay Thai Wrap, from DHGate
Kickboxing Gloves, from Amazon
Compression Wrap
Wakefield Sports Medicine

The only reason to bind his forearm like he does is if Sokka has an injury there, which wouldn’t make sense to continue doing after it healed and he never complains about; to secure his sleeves, which he doesn’t wear; or if another piece of armor was going over it, which he doesn’t have. Maybe those blue fingerless gloves are padded, similar to bag gloves, and he’s wearing his tape underneath that. That is a tempting possibility, that Sokka is wearing fingerless padded leather gloves with tape underneath to prevent chafing and secure his wrist.

Another possibility, however, is that Sokka actually is wearing forearm armor and not a wrap at all. What initially looks like a forearm wrap may actually be quilted armor. Thick quilted padding has been, and remains still, popular as inexpensive protection in its own right, in addition to being worn underneath other forms of armor.

His father, Hakoda, also gives us some indication that this might be the right track. He wears a metal bracer over a long, fingerless glove that looks similar to the ones that Sokka wears. We also see that Sokka does wear what look like vambraces with his wolf head armor, and perhaps there are quilted pads underneath that, which he wears the rest of the time.

Hakoda
Pinterest
Arming Wear Bracers
Medieval Collectibles
Gambeson Arm
Evil Tailors

This strikes me as the more likely scenario. That Sokka’s forearm and shin garments are partial padding, meant to go under his full armor, that he wears on their own. This, again, is actually fairly common. Arming wear is designed to be worn under other armor but is also frequently used on its own to provide lighter, more flexible protection. Wool, canvas, and leather have all been used for arming wear.

This also offers a tempting option to the lower leg gear. Rather than gaiters, they may be lower leg arming greaves, meant to be worn under his heavier armor.

Necklace

For a nice change, Sokka’s necklace seems fairly straightforward. It looks like a wampum, a traditional form of seashell beaded jewelry produced by many First Nations peoples. We can see examples of wampum beads and jewelry below, and see similarities to Sokka’s. Seashell beads are also natural for the Southern Water Tribe to use for decoration, is is one thing that they should have aplenty.

Wampum Beads
The Wandering Bull
Penobscot Wampum Neclace
Museum of the American Indian
Wampum Belts, Wikipedia

The other possibility is that Sokka is wearing a traditional Inuit bracelet as a choker. These are often made from wale bone or walrus ivory, which should also be something the Southern Water Tribe has aplenty, though wood is also sometimes used as well. While this style ornament isn’t popular as a choker in the our world, perhaps it is in the world of Avatar. Or maybe Sokka is just wearing a bracelet as a necklace, that does sound like our boy.

Comparison Image, from The Cultures of Avatar: The Last Airbender, on Tumblr

Conclusion

Great. So, what was the point of all that? Well, now we’ve got some idea of what we’re looking for to actually design and construct a truly wearable, comfortable, practical version of Sokka’s clothes.

I do want to be clear here, Sokka isn’t wearing a duan da any more than he is wearing knickerbockers. Sokka is wearing the garb of a Southern Water Tribe warrior. We are looking for inspiration for how such garb might be designed and constructed. Rather that mindlessly reproducing what was seen on screen without considering practicality, we’re looking for inspiration in how things have been done in the real world to inform how we are going to do them in that world.

Part of the fun now is that the same sort of analysis could inspire very different conclusions. Perhaps you might prefer to base your belt on a crios rather than a keikogi obi, favor suede instead of cotton for the tunic, boxing tape and gloves instead of arming bracers for the forearms, or laces instead of drawstrings on the pants. All of these are valid options, we don’t have originals to base our designs off and there is no real world Water Tribe whose fashions we could look to for further inspiration.

This affords us the freedom to create our own interpretation of the clothes that Sokka wears, and I think we’ve got enough in the way of inspiration to put together something that will both look and feel good.

We’re ready to make something that a Southern Water Tribe warrior might be proud to be garbed in.

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